| How pups are raised here at G-Force Border Collies |
| Here are a few of the things we do to help our pups with socialization and development. This list is not a complete list because to be honest we add new things when we discover them. I think no matter how many years you have been raising and handling dogs you should strive to learn and improve all the time. Within the last few years we have had new developments in DNA health tests and we strive to keep up with the times to insure that our pups are born without the diseases we can test for. ~Trish |
Our breeding dogs are health screened and all of our pups are guaranteed in writing. We do not and will not refer
people to other breeders who do not do the same testing and socialization that we do. We are not believers in the
new puppy gimmick which is to guarantee the pups but not test the parents. We have learned over the years it is
easier to just test the dogs and be done with it. I am not a fly by night breeder and have been in the
breeding/showing world all my life. I am always learning new things and strive to get better as the years go by. The
information below is what I do with my pups. All breeders are different and some will do different things to better
their pups while others will do nothing other than feeding, worming and vaccinating. This is my information so
please don't post this or snips from it on your breeder site. The only site that has my permission to use this our
sister site Rapid Fire Border Collies. I have been working on and adding to this information since we started with
Border Collies in 1997.
people to other breeders who do not do the same testing and socialization that we do. We are not believers in the
new puppy gimmick which is to guarantee the pups but not test the parents. We have learned over the years it is
easier to just test the dogs and be done with it. I am not a fly by night breeder and have been in the
breeding/showing world all my life. I am always learning new things and strive to get better as the years go by. The
information below is what I do with my pups. All breeders are different and some will do different things to better
their pups while others will do nothing other than feeding, worming and vaccinating. This is my information so
please don't post this or snips from it on your breeder site. The only site that has my permission to use this our
sister site Rapid Fire Border Collies. I have been working on and adding to this information since we started with
Border Collies in 1997.
Lets get started!
WARNING! This is very long so get comfy!
First let me say it takes more than a male and a female to breed good dogs. i go over pedigree's, temperament types,
drive, structure, my goals for the breeding and more. I want to combine the two dogs that will make the best possible
combination for a litter. Once I have decided which two dogs I will be breeding I wait for my girl to come into heat and start
to prepare for the puppies.
Once our female is close to her due date we watch her like a hawk. I personally disagree with the whole let nature take its
course theory. I understand dogs have been giving birth on their own for a long time but nature did not plan this breeding.
I did. It was my choice to do the breeding so it is my responsibility to see to it that the mom is as comfortable as possible
and I help her out in any way I can. If I have a girl who likes to handle things more on her own and just wants to deal with
things quietly then I will give her the space she needs but I monitor just in case. Once the pups are coming I write down
notes the whole time just for future reference as far as birthing order, how fast the pup latches on, color, markings,
strength, weight, sex etc. If a pup needs any help I am there. Some moms will bite the cord too close and it may need to be
tied and there could be other complications I may need to deal with.
When the labor part is over I make sure the mom has plenty of fresh water, extra electrolytes, a full bowl of food, then I let
her bond. Most moms will just want to be left to bond and take care of the pups. For the next few weeks I will monitor the
pups growth, eating habits, and how the pups act as far as who eats the strongest and who is a more vocal pup. The pups
are handled both while they are nursing and while they are not nursing so that they will become accustom to human smell
and touch. While the pups eyes and ears are closed all they know is our smell and touch. We use this time to play with the
pups feet, tails, ears etc so the pups are not sensitive to having their feet or other body parts handled. The handling
makes a vet exams later much easier.
As the pups grow our handling and socializing really get fun. I try to expose the pups to as much as I can in a short period
of time. For sound work I start out basically before they ears open. Well really I don't but my 4 boys do. I do not ever tell
the boys to be quiet or the pups will not get spooked, so the pups grow up here thinking life is full of loud noises and that
is just the way it is. My boys favorite thing to do is what we call "marching band" I will take this old set of pots and let the
boys just make normal banging noises with the pans.. Oh did I forget to mention that we put hot dogs, boiled chicken, dog
food etc in the pans so while my boys are banging away the pups are happy to follow them around getting the goodies that
fall out! We work up to very loud bangs and yes eventually it we can shoot a cap gun and it will not upset the pups.
I don't want the pup to be spooked by moving objects so I also hang a tarp along a fence or on a branch so when the wind
blows it will move. The pups get use to the moving tarp and are not worried at all. We also play hide and seek with the pups
and will walk behind the tarp and call them so they really like to see what all the flapping is about. We also use other
items that pups usually don't like such as an umbrella that we will open and close a lot. We expose the pups to obstacles
that they can climb in, under and over so they learn to try new things and explore. I want to make sure the pups are not
bothered by various surfaces so I make sure pups get a lot of play time on carpet, tile, concrete, and grass.
I personally think all dogs should be crate trained so I start the pups out early with a crate. First it is just a play house that
the pups can go in and out of as the choose. Then the pups start to get separated into groups and will go to a crate at
"nap time" together. Then the pups will get alone time in the crate and work up to sleeping in a crate at night alone. I get a
lot of wonderful comments from my puppy buyers about how good the pups are in a crate. The key is to work up to alone
crate time so they do not become dependent on the other pups in the litter.
I also want pups to enjoy being brushed and bathed, so our pups get daily grooming and baths when needed. They also
learn to tolerate nail clippings and having their teeth brushed. Spring pups seem to get muddy more so they leave here
very use to baths. We bathe our pups in human baby bath not dog shampoo or puppy shampoo when they are little pups
simply to keep from irritating their skin.
Our pups are encouraged to play with many different types of puppy toys and we rotate the toys so the pup get something
different every few days. I don't wan the pups to get bored and I want to encourage them to play with and explore new
toys. I think Border Collies and fetch go hand in hand so I do keep lots of balls and especially tennis balls with treats in
them around for the pups to play with.
While the pups are here I want them to start learning manners. Manners make living with your pup much easier. We try to
teach the pups to sit for treats and petting. We want a pup that can lay in his crate and go in the crate without pitching a fit.
In order to accomplish this we have to make sure we use the crate in a positive way and not as punishment. All pups
leave our home having slept in a crate alone so once the pup gets to his/her new home the crate is a familiar place to be.
Our pups are also put on a loose leash but we do not expect much from them because they are pups but we don't want
them to act like a fish out of water flopping around like crazy.
Our pups have started house training and most are litter box trained or puppy pad trained when they leave here. Each
pup is different but we do our best.
Our pups are very well socialized with our kids and all the pups get alone cuddle with our family. We will also take our pups
for rides so they can handle car rides and learn to get use to the motion. (we do not take them on unfamiliar ground that
could expose them to other dogs who we are not familiar with) I also like to make sure our pups have good experience with
adult dogs so our pups are exposed to another well mannered adult dogs in addition to their mom so they will learn how to
act with other dogs.
When our pups are 7 weeks we have them temperament tested. We use the Volhard Temperament Test for our pups.
The temperament test is just an overview of where the pups are at 7 weeks. A temperament test is not set in stone and
should be used as a guide for puppy owners. (EX: If the test shows a pup does not have a lot of ball drive. The new owner
will know that is something they need to work on. (take a tennis ball and put two slices in it so when you squeeze it you can
see inside. Then put treat is the tennis ball. While the ball is rolling the pups will smell the treats and want them.
Unfortunately for the pup he can't get the treats out without your help. So when you get the ball back you squeeze it and
out comes the treats, repeat and eventually the pup will learn to bring the ball to you to get the prize out of it. )
Our pups also leave with a written contract and guarantee for not only your protection but our and the pups. We will have
given the pups his first set of shots and kept a strict worming schedule as well. We give pups a 5 way vaccine made by
Fort Dodge at 7-8 weeks of age and our pups are wormed starting at 3 weeks old and repeated every week. We rotate
wormer between Pyrantel and Fenbendazole. Our puppies are fed a diet of a combo of both Raw and Kibble diet.
Our goal is to produce pups who do not stress when they go into their new homes.
You will get all the info on the exact vaccine and wormer used so there will be no question when you take your pup to your
vet. It really bothers me when a person takes a pup who DOES NOT need another vaccine into the vet and that vet insists
he/she needs to give another puppy shot. There is no reason to get a shot before it is due it will not help the pups
immunity to the disease you are trying to prevent.
Please fell free to ask any questions. I am sure I left something out.
call 337-239-3160 or 337-353-5238
WARNING! This is very long so get comfy!
First let me say it takes more than a male and a female to breed good dogs. i go over pedigree's, temperament types,
drive, structure, my goals for the breeding and more. I want to combine the two dogs that will make the best possible
combination for a litter. Once I have decided which two dogs I will be breeding I wait for my girl to come into heat and start
to prepare for the puppies.
Once our female is close to her due date we watch her like a hawk. I personally disagree with the whole let nature take its
course theory. I understand dogs have been giving birth on their own for a long time but nature did not plan this breeding.
I did. It was my choice to do the breeding so it is my responsibility to see to it that the mom is as comfortable as possible
and I help her out in any way I can. If I have a girl who likes to handle things more on her own and just wants to deal with
things quietly then I will give her the space she needs but I monitor just in case. Once the pups are coming I write down
notes the whole time just for future reference as far as birthing order, how fast the pup latches on, color, markings,
strength, weight, sex etc. If a pup needs any help I am there. Some moms will bite the cord too close and it may need to be
tied and there could be other complications I may need to deal with.
When the labor part is over I make sure the mom has plenty of fresh water, extra electrolytes, a full bowl of food, then I let
her bond. Most moms will just want to be left to bond and take care of the pups. For the next few weeks I will monitor the
pups growth, eating habits, and how the pups act as far as who eats the strongest and who is a more vocal pup. The pups
are handled both while they are nursing and while they are not nursing so that they will become accustom to human smell
and touch. While the pups eyes and ears are closed all they know is our smell and touch. We use this time to play with the
pups feet, tails, ears etc so the pups are not sensitive to having their feet or other body parts handled. The handling
makes a vet exams later much easier.
As the pups grow our handling and socializing really get fun. I try to expose the pups to as much as I can in a short period
of time. For sound work I start out basically before they ears open. Well really I don't but my 4 boys do. I do not ever tell
the boys to be quiet or the pups will not get spooked, so the pups grow up here thinking life is full of loud noises and that
is just the way it is. My boys favorite thing to do is what we call "marching band" I will take this old set of pots and let the
boys just make normal banging noises with the pans.. Oh did I forget to mention that we put hot dogs, boiled chicken, dog
food etc in the pans so while my boys are banging away the pups are happy to follow them around getting the goodies that
fall out! We work up to very loud bangs and yes eventually it we can shoot a cap gun and it will not upset the pups.
I don't want the pup to be spooked by moving objects so I also hang a tarp along a fence or on a branch so when the wind
blows it will move. The pups get use to the moving tarp and are not worried at all. We also play hide and seek with the pups
and will walk behind the tarp and call them so they really like to see what all the flapping is about. We also use other
items that pups usually don't like such as an umbrella that we will open and close a lot. We expose the pups to obstacles
that they can climb in, under and over so they learn to try new things and explore. I want to make sure the pups are not
bothered by various surfaces so I make sure pups get a lot of play time on carpet, tile, concrete, and grass.
I personally think all dogs should be crate trained so I start the pups out early with a crate. First it is just a play house that
the pups can go in and out of as the choose. Then the pups start to get separated into groups and will go to a crate at
"nap time" together. Then the pups will get alone time in the crate and work up to sleeping in a crate at night alone. I get a
lot of wonderful comments from my puppy buyers about how good the pups are in a crate. The key is to work up to alone
crate time so they do not become dependent on the other pups in the litter.
I also want pups to enjoy being brushed and bathed, so our pups get daily grooming and baths when needed. They also
learn to tolerate nail clippings and having their teeth brushed. Spring pups seem to get muddy more so they leave here
very use to baths. We bathe our pups in human baby bath not dog shampoo or puppy shampoo when they are little pups
simply to keep from irritating their skin.
Our pups are encouraged to play with many different types of puppy toys and we rotate the toys so the pup get something
different every few days. I don't wan the pups to get bored and I want to encourage them to play with and explore new
toys. I think Border Collies and fetch go hand in hand so I do keep lots of balls and especially tennis balls with treats in
them around for the pups to play with.
While the pups are here I want them to start learning manners. Manners make living with your pup much easier. We try to
teach the pups to sit for treats and petting. We want a pup that can lay in his crate and go in the crate without pitching a fit.
In order to accomplish this we have to make sure we use the crate in a positive way and not as punishment. All pups
leave our home having slept in a crate alone so once the pup gets to his/her new home the crate is a familiar place to be.
Our pups are also put on a loose leash but we do not expect much from them because they are pups but we don't want
them to act like a fish out of water flopping around like crazy.
Our pups have started house training and most are litter box trained or puppy pad trained when they leave here. Each
pup is different but we do our best.
Our pups are very well socialized with our kids and all the pups get alone cuddle with our family. We will also take our pups
for rides so they can handle car rides and learn to get use to the motion. (we do not take them on unfamiliar ground that
could expose them to other dogs who we are not familiar with) I also like to make sure our pups have good experience with
adult dogs so our pups are exposed to another well mannered adult dogs in addition to their mom so they will learn how to
act with other dogs.
When our pups are 7 weeks we have them temperament tested. We use the Volhard Temperament Test for our pups.
The temperament test is just an overview of where the pups are at 7 weeks. A temperament test is not set in stone and
should be used as a guide for puppy owners. (EX: If the test shows a pup does not have a lot of ball drive. The new owner
will know that is something they need to work on. (take a tennis ball and put two slices in it so when you squeeze it you can
see inside. Then put treat is the tennis ball. While the ball is rolling the pups will smell the treats and want them.
Unfortunately for the pup he can't get the treats out without your help. So when you get the ball back you squeeze it and
out comes the treats, repeat and eventually the pup will learn to bring the ball to you to get the prize out of it. )
Our pups also leave with a written contract and guarantee for not only your protection but our and the pups. We will have
given the pups his first set of shots and kept a strict worming schedule as well. We give pups a 5 way vaccine made by
Fort Dodge at 7-8 weeks of age and our pups are wormed starting at 3 weeks old and repeated every week. We rotate
wormer between Pyrantel and Fenbendazole. Our puppies are fed a diet of a combo of both Raw and Kibble diet.
Our goal is to produce pups who do not stress when they go into their new homes.
You will get all the info on the exact vaccine and wormer used so there will be no question when you take your pup to your
vet. It really bothers me when a person takes a pup who DOES NOT need another vaccine into the vet and that vet insists
he/she needs to give another puppy shot. There is no reason to get a shot before it is due it will not help the pups
immunity to the disease you are trying to prevent.
Please fell free to ask any questions. I am sure I left something out.
call 337-239-3160 or 337-353-5238
